Hidden away in tranquil isolation amidst the scenic surroundings of the Machno Valley in North Wales, lies the idyllic little village of Penmachno. A fantastic base for walking, horse riding, mountain biking and other activity holidays, the area is also steeped in history and culture. Well over half of the residents speak Welsh here.
Overview of Penmachno
Situated at the meeting point of the Glasgwm and Machno rivers, Penmachno has always been a place of pilgrimage. One of its most famous sons was the notable William Morgan, the bishop responsible for translating the Bible into Welsh in the 16th century. The village’s name comes from the Welsh word ‘Pen’ an abbreviation of ‘Pennant’ for “upland, or head of a valley” and so translates as Machno’s Head. Machno being the name of the valley wherein the village lies.
How to Get to Penmachno
Surrounded by steep hills and forest the best way to arrive at Penmachno is via the narrow and precipitous roadway leading into the Valley from nearby Ffestiniog. The steep descent can be quite dizzying but well worth it for the unique experience.
If you’re not quite up for the thrills and spills of the mountain descent there is the more sedate option to drive in via Betws-y-Coed just four miles south of Penmachno. If you are travelling by public transport the No 19 bus runs twice daily from Conwy and will drop you off at the Eagles Hotel in Penmachno. Whatever way you land here you certainly won’t regret taking the time to visit Penmachno.
Penmachno Walks
The scenic forested landscape around Penmachno plays host to a wide variety of walking trails to suit all fitness levels. An ideal destination for hikers and climbers when you arrive at Penmachno you are within 15 miles reach of all the 3000ft Welsh Peaks; Snowdon, the Carneddau and the Glyders to mention only a few.
If you’re up for a moderately strenuous hike, it’s worth heading for Denbigh slate mines and the abandoned village there. The loop trail takes a little over four hours to complete and takes you to an elevation of over 2200 feet. Coming across abandoned mining buildings and other ruins lends an air of mystery and eeriness to the trail.
If you are looking to test your mettle there is a strenuous and difficult 22-mile route that takes you from Penmachno to Betws-y-Coed. This way takes in peaks of over 3400 feet, offering spectacular vistas over Snowdonia. Be aware that this is an unmarked route, you will need navigational skills and in excess of ten hours of daylight to complete the one-way trek. Organising transport in advance to bring you back from Betws-y-Coed is recommended.
Section 11 of the Snowdonia Slate Trail takes you from Penmachno to Betws-y-Coed on an easy 5.3-mile stretch of the pleasant walking route. Starting in Penmachno the lane will lead you by the old Mill onto broader forestry tracks, which you will follow to the Roman Bridge and the Conwy Falls Café, where you can always take a break for refreshments. From here signposted woodland paths will take you above the Conwy river and this pretty trail will bring you alongside the magical Fairy Glen before joining the road back into Betws-y-Coed.
A different route to consider is to follow the Snowdonia Slate Trail from Llan Ffestiniog back to Penmachno. It’s a moderately strenuous hike that takes in the mystical secluded Cwm Cynfal gorge with its stunning waterfalls, the moors of the Migneint, the ruins of quarry mining, and the tramway. Finally, a relatively steep descent takes you through broadleaf woodland to bring you out at St Tudclud Church in Penmachno. Right across the road is the Eagles Pub if you feel the need for some well-deserved light refreshment at this point.
Penmachno Mountain Bike Trails
The Penmachno Mountain bike trails are truly the hidden gem of North Wales. With more than 18 miles or 30 km of trails taking in the best of Snowdonia it is a paradise for biking enthusiasts. The trails consist of two loops that can be completed as one entire trail, complete with breathtaking views, demanding forest climbs and thrilling descents.
Loop 1 is known as Dolen Machno. This 19km circular route, boasts the biggest climbs and fastest descents, while Loop 2 Dolen Eryri, shorter at 11km, offers a sweeping single-track boardwalk and stone trail with truly spectacular views. If you have energy to burn you can try a combination of the two, a 30 km double loop called simply ‘the Penmachno Trail’.
Penmachno Pubs (and Nearby Pubs)
When all the adventuring is done for the day it’s great to settle in for an evening of socialising in Penmachno’s only pub. The aforementioned Eagles is a traditional real ale pub with a homely welcoming atmosphere. They offer hot food, made with fresh local ingredients and catering to vegetarian diets, every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening during the summer season. Live music is a big part of the experience with open mic nights and folk music gigs bringing people together. A lively folk session happens on the first Wednesday of every month and visitors are encouraged to get involved.
A little further afield, but only by a couple of miles, heading in the direction of Betws-y-Coed, you will come across the Silver Fountain Pub on Dinas Hill, which has been serving up good food and drinks in a warm welcoming setting for many years. In the village of Betws-y-Coed itself, there is a greater selection of pubs, cafés and places to eat to choose from.
Penmachno Places of Interest
Open from Mid March through to November, the historic farmhouse of Ty Mawr Wybrnant, the birthplace of Bishop William Morgan, makes for a great day out for all the family.
Taking a trip back in time, in this fantastic location with its breathtaking views of Conwy Valley, you can experience life in North Wales as it was for local people for hundreds of years. There’s a wonderful Tudor Kitchen garden where you can learn about traditional medicinal plants and herbs while the animal puzzle trail through the garden will keep children entertained for hours.
Places to Stay in Penmachno
The Eagles’ Bunkhouse sleeps up to 29 people. Accommodation is in 4-bunk bedrooms. The rooms are all private with bed-linen provided and there are safely locked storage facilities for bicycles on site.
Alternatively, the White Roses Retreat is a charming one-bed bungalow available for holiday lets in Penmachno. The Old Bakery is an end-of-terrace cottage that sleeps two and is a great pet-friendly option.
There’s a wider selection of options in the surrounding area, in nearby Betws-y-Coed and Blaenau Ffestiniog or further afield.
You can also check sites such as booking.com and Airbnb for more options.